In-depth look at: Beryl
Yarn Choice
The sample was knit with 3 hanks of Fyberspates Chunky BFL (100% wool yarn that has 100m / 109 yards to 100 g). This is a plump round yarn that shows of the texture of the cable patterns beautifully. Knit at 12 stitches to 10 cm /4 inches in stocking stitch.
If using a substitute, I recommend using a yarn that has similar properties, in a colour that will make the cables easy to see.
Cable knitting
I prefer to work cables with out a cable needle, as I find it quicker and easier. To do this you re-order the stitches on the LH needle, before working them.
For a simple ‘twist’ cable, I insert the RH needle in to the stitches that begin on the left hand side of the cable, (from either front or back, as appropriate), slide off all cable stitches, then reinsert the LH needle in the free stitches (i.e. those not on a needle), slip the stitches on the RH needles to the LH, then knit or purl as appropriate across all stitches. It sounds long-winded written down, but in action is a quick and easy way to work cables. If you knit very tightly you may have some trouble manipulating the stitches with this technique.
Two ‘worked’ examples:
A Cable 4 Front / C4F / cross 2 over 2 to the right cable (my preferred terminology is Cable 2 right over 2K) example:
Insert RH needle into 3rd and 4th stitch from tip of RH needles from the front.
Slip first four stitches off from LH needle.
Insert LH needle into free stitches (the two stitches behind the RH needle).
Slip 2 stitches from RH to LH needle.
K4.
A Cable 2 left, over 1P example:
Insert RH needle into back of third stitch from tip of RH needle.
Slip first 3 stitches off LH needles.
Insert LH needle back into free stitches (the two stitches that are in front of the RH needle).
Slip stitch on RH needle back to LH needle.
P1, K2.
Working i-cord
See the links on the tutorial page.
Sizing
Using the same yarn and tension as the sample will give a bag that is approximately 23cm / 9 inches wide, 11cm / 4.25 inches deep, and 27cm / 10.5 inches tall, not including handles.
To make a smaller bag, use a DK or worsted weight yarn. Or knit at a firmer gauge, but bear in mind the cables may be harder to work, the tighter the gauge is.
Handles
If the bag if to be used to carry anything that is heavy, such as books, you may wish to line and perhaps use wooden/metal/plastic handles.
Lining
Leaving seam allowance, cut your fabric to the length of the bag, plus twice the width. Sew the right-sides of the fabric together leaving one short side open.
If using a firm handle as above, you may wish to use the lining material to attach the handle – if so, cut ‘tabs’ – rectangles from the fabric (with seam allowance) – wide to fit through the holes in the handles, and length long enough to go through the holes and sandwich the ends between the knit fabric and the lining. Hem these pieces, and fold them through the handle ready to be attached.
Folding down the open side of the fabric bag so a nice edge is given, sew it to the knitted bag, taking in the tab lining fabric as you go.
See also this fantastic tutorial over at FutureGirl.com, which is primarily for crocheted bags, but can easily be used to line knitted bags as well. There is also a tutorial illustrating how to sew the lining.



July 2nd, 2009 at 9:21 pm
Welcome back! Love the bag. How’s the spinning wheel renovation coming along?
July 2nd, 2009 at 10:51 pm
Oooh, it went fine, once I worked out where the drive band went! But I didn’t really like spinning on it, so I bought an Ashford Traveller instead!
July 4th, 2009 at 10:55 pm
nice technique for working the cable – will have to try it!
July 7th, 2009 at 8:46 am
Hi Elly
What a lovely bag….totaly love it
Yeah, you have to go and buy some of the Sirri yarn. I haven’t tryed it out yet but it will be very soon