Buy Corner Cushion here or through Ravelry

The Corner Cushion could be a great first project for a beginning knitter, as most of the work is knit and purl, but also introduces slipping purl- and knit-wise, and a simple yarn over/k2tog buttonhole.

Inspired by the often blocky lines of Bauhaus styling, I wanted to combine it with the traditionally softer look of Aran designs, so I used the four of the simplest textures knitting gives us and incorporated them into a simple tile pattern.

Yarn Choice
The sample was knit in one hank of undyed Fyberspates DK Blue Faced Leicester (220m to 100g), which is a smooth, round yarn, with little halo, which gives clearly defined stitch texture.

Substitutions
Consider a yarn with a slight halo, which would reintroduce some softness into the design. You could also knit two or more strands together. This way you could also play with colour, perhaps using yarns that are close in colour, but that have different fibre contents, which would add further depth to the design. Also consider using a cotton yarn that would give very crisp stitch definition.

You could also work the pattern in intarsia, using a different tone for each texture.

Sizing and Gauge
As written, the pattern calls for a DK yarn knit to a gauge of 20 stitches to 10 cm/4 inches, which gives a finished cover of 30 cm/12 inches square.

To size up for a bigger cover, for example, 35 cm/14 inches, add 2 stitches and 2 or 4 rows to each texture section, depending on your gauge, i.e. for total of 12 stitches and 12 or 24 rows added.

To use a yarn that has a different gauge, work out how many stitches you get per 10 cm/ 4 inches, and extrapolate from that how many you will need to cast on, and for each texture section – you will probably have to fudge the numbers to make them fit, within reason, this is fine, as knit fabric is a flexible fabric – it can cling or stretch to fit the cushion pad.

Below is a worked example – I have omitted the inch measurement for clarity, but it would be worked in the same way.

eg. gauge: 18 stitches to 10 cm, for a 30 cm cover

10 cm /18 stitches = 0.556cm= 1 stitch width
30cm/0.556cm= 54 stitches

54 stitches / 6 texture sections= 9 stitches per section

(N.B. Be sure to ‘hide’ the single stitch blocks in the Moss stitch* at the edges of the work, that form as a result of the odd number.)

Total cast on = 54+1 slip stitch = 55 stitches for each side of the cushion = 110 cast on

* By Moss stitch I mean the texture that is formed by working (as viewed from the RS) K2, P2 for two rows, then P2, K2 for two rows. This is stitch is named differently across cultures.

Chart reading basics
In general all charts are made to look like your knitting does, from the right side of the work, that is, forming from bottom to top, right to left.

Of course, when working flat, you are working back and forth, as in the Corner Cushion pattern, and so the wrong side must be read left to right – row numbers are usually placed at the start of each row. Bear in mind that the symbols are usually always presented as if looking from the right side e.g. although the symbol looks like a knit stitch from the right side, if you are working from the wrong side, you must purl the stitch, so it also looks like a knit stitch on the right side. The legend for the symbols clarifies this.

Fitting cushion pads

I aim to make cushion covers with a width of the cushion pad – this way it will be slightly stretched over the curve of the fatter part of the cushion, but still fitted on the slimmer corners.

Buy Beryl here

Yarn Choice
The sample was knit with 3 hanks of Fyberspates Chunky BFL (100% wool yarn that has 100m / 109 yards to 100 g). This is a plump round yarn that shows of the texture of the cable patterns beautifully. Knit at 12 stitches to 10 cm /4 inches in stocking stitch.

If using a substitute, I recommend using a yarn that has similar properties, in a colour that will make the cables easy to see.

Cable knitting
I prefer to work cables with out a cable needle, as I find it quicker and easier. To do this you re-order the stitches on the LH needle, before working them.

For a simple ‘twist’ cable, I insert the RH needle in to the stitches that begin on the left hand side of the cable, (from either front or back, as appropriate), slide off all cable stitches, then reinsert the LH needle in the free stitches (i.e. those not on a needle), slip the stitches on the RH needles to the LH, then knit or purl as appropriate across all stitches. It sounds long-winded written down, but in action is a quick and easy way to work cables. If you knit very tightly you may have some trouble manipulating the stitches with this technique.

Two ‘worked’ examples:

A Cable 4 Front / C4F / cross 2 over 2 to the right cable (my preferred terminology is Cable 2 right over 2K) example:

Insert RH needle into 3rd and 4th stitch from tip of RH needles from the front.
Slip first four stitches off from LH needle.
Insert LH needle into free stitches (the two stitches behind the RH needle).
Slip 2 stitches from RH to LH needle.
K4.

A Cable 2 left, over 1P example:

Insert RH needle into back of third stitch from tip of RH needle.
Slip first 3 stitches off LH needles.
Insert LH needle back into free stitches (the two stitches that are in front of the RH needle).
Slip stitch on RH needle back to LH needle.
P1, K2.

Working i-cord
See the links on the tutorial page.

Sizing
Using the same yarn and tension as the sample will give a bag that is approximately 23cm / 9 inches wide, 11cm / 4.25 inches deep, and 27cm / 10.5 inches tall, not including handles.

To make a smaller bag, use a DK or worsted weight yarn. Or knit at a firmer gauge, but bear in mind the cables may be harder to work, the tighter the gauge is.

Handles
If the bag if to be used to carry anything that is heavy, such as books, you may wish to line and perhaps use wooden/metal/plastic handles.

Lining
Leaving seam allowance, cut your fabric to the length of the bag, plus twice the width. Sew the right-sides of the fabric together leaving one short side open.

If using a firm handle as above, you may wish to use the lining material to attach the handle – if so, cut ‘tabs’ – rectangles from the fabric (with seam allowance) – wide to fit through the holes in the handles, and length long enough to go through the holes and sandwich the ends between the knit fabric and the lining. Hem these pieces, and fold them through the handle ready to be attached.

Folding down the open side of the fabric bag so a nice edge is given, sew it to the knitted bag, taking in the tab lining fabric as you go.

See also this fantastic tutorial over at FutureGirl.com, which is primarily for crocheted bags, but can easily be used to line knitted bags as well. There is also a tutorial illustrating how to sew the lining.